Noted as one of the most haunted cities in the UK, and a stone throw from the notorious Greyfriars Kirkyard Cemetary, Ed Fringe regulars would have seen the Ghost Tours Bus parked up and taking visitors on a spooky ride through the city.

I’ve always wanted to go on the bus tour, but never found the time to squeeze it in. But, with it being fringe, press tickets were available and, as it is conducted by trained actors, it felt apt to take part.

Joining, coincidentally, at just outside the Frankenstein pub, we are admitted to an old bus that has been kitted out inside with tables and seats, velvet curtains, old lamps, reflecting gothic culture and old horror films. It is plush and feels like taking part in a seance. However, the initial induction was in want: we are greeted by our tour guide, dressed ghostly but who did not seem to want to engage with us. Taking our tickets however, was an man dressed in an ordinary manner, breaking the illusion quite instantly. It was a real shame to have this initial introduction and likely impacted how the rest of the tour felt.

Throughout the journey, there are snippets pointed out to us, of mass grave sites and places where reported ghost sightings have been. These are sometimes elaborated upon, others not. The ones that are are very interesting, but others that would seem likely stories visitors would be more interested in e.g. the ghosts of the castle, are merely commented on existing and swept over, leaving us wanting a lot more.

We have the opportunity to jump off at the oldest graveyard, which did have this spooky feel and started to get your hopes back up of returning to the good ol ghost tour. Sadly, however, our tour guide of the day, while following his script in both spooky facts and the story line, often broke character to bring his own commentary such as a dislike of Ed Fringe, a moment of warning to not venturing a certain way in the graveyard due to thefts resulting in his shouting at the tourist who didn’t listen, and commentary on the traffic. Again, it sadly broke the magic slightly and, perhaps he was just having a bad day, but did not seem relevant information or part of the experience at times.

Throughout, we are introduced to a story line of a supposed ghost lady who slowly breaks down the bus. We are introduced vocally to the driver, an alcoholic ex-prison inmate, and this gave an interesting element to our story. We’re told the bus once carried bodies, we end up in an exorcism, and there are plenty of jump scares through speakers and the screens. Myself as a complete wimp was jumping at all of this, but only proved its sufficiency in this way.

Overall, the Ghost Tours Bus is certainly an experience and a novel way to explore a haunted city such as Edinburgh, after you have done the traditional sightseeing. It adds another element to its past, and the experience is something for all horror lovers. It just happened that this particular tour had many moments of the illusion broken and felt slightly disappointing when so much has clearly been put into the aesthetics and planning.